Friday, December 30, 2011

Find The Right Size Room Air Conditioner

We're not talking about the weight of the air conditioner here, but tons of cooling.  Evaporative air coolers, or swamp coolers used for spot cooling as personal air conditioners.  Measure the airflow over the air conditioner's cooling coils.  Portable air conditioners are ideal for cooling down small rooms such a small livingroom or a bedroom.  A portable air conditioner is very good to provide supplemental cooling.  The central air conditioner will be more advantageous for large rooms and in cases where whole houses or apartments needs cooling.  Our portable air conditioners are a versatile and economical solution to your cooling problems.  Portatemp.com is a manufacturer and vendor of portable air conditioners and temporary cooling units.

  Our experience and product line provide the best resource anywhere for portable air conditioners and all of your temporary cooling needs.  Early applications for the liquid-desiccant air conditioner will be as a thermally activated cooling system for processing ventilation air in humid climates.  A new central air conditioner is not very expensive and can save you hundreds of dollars each year on cooling costs.  The values are based on a central air conditioner with a 36,000 Btu/hour capacity and national averages for cooling loads and electricity prices.  Ensure your air conditioner is the correct capacity for the size room it is cooling.   

   To replace or service auto or car air conditioning, look to iCARumba.com to find relevant air conditioner info.  Generally speaking Generally speaking a portable air conditioner will be a good supplement to central air conditioning in places mentioned right above.  FRIEDRICH Air Conditioning does not make covers for air conditioners because of the mold and mildew problem.  Spot coolers, portable air conditioners, mobile air conditioning equipment, & portable evaporative coolers.  There are a couple of common measurements that can tell you a lot about an air conditioner's cooling capacity and energy usage.  An oversized air conditioner is actually less effective than a correctly sized unit, and wastes energy at the same time.  Remember - using a properly-sized air conditioner will provide better comfort and use less energy than one that's too big or small.

  This chart from Energy Star can help you find the right size room air conditioner to meet your needs.  ENERGY STAR qualified central air conditioners have a higher seasonal efficiency rating (SEER) than standard models, which makes them about 25% more efficient.  Department of Energy to block it from scaling back an increase in minimum air conditioner energy-efficiency standards.  All of the models listed in the link above meet, and in most cases exceed, the ENERGY STAR requirements for room air conditioners.  The waythat central air conditioners are rated is according to theirseasonal energy efficient ratio (SEER).  In order to be ENERGY STAR qualified, room air conditioners must exceed federal efficiency standards by ten percent or more.  Oversized units decrease the efficiency of your air conditioner and waste energy by cooling the room quickly but not removing enough humidity.

  The guideline addresses issues such as energy efficiency and air conditioner noise in a clear and concise manner.  The energy cost savings realized over the lifetime of an energy-efficient central air conditioner can offset the initial cost of the product.  ENERGY STAR central air conditioners use about 20% less energy each year than a standard air conditioner.  Recent studies show that the average central air conditioner will consume two times the energy required to adequately cool your home. 

  Designed for ease of use, this little air conditioner utilizes frozen water to create a personal climate-control system anyone can use.  Please have a sales representative help you purchase a room air conditioner or central air conditioning system that meets your needs.  Further a portable airconditioner can be acquired for substantially less money than a central system.  The laws governing CFC's now do not allow your air conditioner contractor to add Freon to a leaky system.  If your home already has the ductwork for a home heating system, then adding a new central air conditioner is easy.  The new central air conditioner will use the same ductwork as a forced-air heating system or radiant heating system.

  If you are replacing your central air conditioner, tell your contractor what you liked and did not like about the old system.  When the air conditioner is coupled with a duct system that meets Manual D criteria, the proper flow is achieved.  One advantage of split system air conditioners is they are usually very quiet.  Let's take a look at three topics: air conditioner efficiency, selecting the right size air conditioner and buying a new system.  If you have a central air conditioner, your system cools and dehumidifies the defined space. 

  Since air conditioners use a lot of electricity, their efficiency became a public issue.  Filter maintenance alone will increase your air conditioner's efficiency, but to get the most from your unit, a thorough cleaning is required.  Professional Maintenance All air conditioners and heat pumps require regular maintenance to perform at peak efficiency.  Change the air conditioner's filters regularly Dirty filters restrict air flow, reduce efficiency and worst case, can cause the evaporator to ice up.  An oversized air conditioner costs more to buy and cycles on and off more frequently, reducing its efficiency.  The efficiency of the typical air conditioner increases the longer it runs.  Sharpa's air conditioners not only exceed federal efficiency standards, they exceed design standards as well.  Their air conditioners not only exceed federal efficiency standards, they also exceed design standards as well. 

  You can see that metal make it possible for an air conditioner to cool (or to heat) the air.  The heating capacity of a reverse cycle air conditioner is the heat that can be put into a room.  If you plan to use the air conditioner in a kitchen, allow for the extra heat generated by the oven and other appliances.  In rooms with a high local heat dissipation the portable air conditioner is more efficient than a central air conditioner.  The same idea holds true for your air conditioner or heat pump.  If you don't service your air conditioner or heat pump regularly, you'll find yourself uncomfortable and broke.  In this article the term air conditioner will apply to a heat pump or a standard air conditioner.  Just setting the dial below room temperature will not activate the air conditioner if it is set in the heat mode.  http://www.air-compressor-part.com/air-conditioner-filter/

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Building Your Dream Home - Part 1

For most of my adult life I had thought about someday building my Dream Home. Several years ago I finally got the chance. I had purchased a lake front lot with a small cottage on it. My initial intention was to use the property “as is”, and someday raze the old cottage and build a new home in its place. After a couple of weekends in the musty old camp I came to the conclusion that I needed to speed up my timetable.

Part of the dream in building my own home was to act as the General Contractor and to personally supply a great deal of sweat equity. I accomplished both of these goals, however it was not easy. There were many roadblocks and bends in the road along the way. In the subsequent parts of this chronology, I will review my experiences in hopes that others may gain from my experiences.


<b>Determining the Home Style and Size</b>

After making the decision to raze the cottage and build a new home, I had to first determine what type and size of home to build. My lot was limited in size and required careful planning to ensure that I would meet all of the setbacks governed by the town I lived in. Although I had these concerns, I decided to forgo the Architect route. I deemed it too expensive and probably not necessary for the style of home I wanted to build. Instead I picked up a handful of Home Plan magazines and surfed the internet for home designs. I also picked up an inexpensive software package for designing homes and floorplans. After a week of reviewing home plans, I found one that met most of my requirements in terms of a floorplan. The footprint was smaller than I wanted, but I concluded that I could redraw the floor plan accordingly using my newly purchased Home Design Software Package.

The Home Design Software package was not as simple to use as the instruction manual implied, however after a couple of weeks I had a floorplan with all the dimensional information.

<b>Assuming the role as the General Contractor</b>

As I had indicated earlier, one of my goals was to assume the role as General Contractor on this project. I quickly learned that banks frown upon lending construction mortgages to everyday homeowners and to folks who have little professional building experience. I got around this issue by deciding not to use the banks for financing. However, from what I learned later, it may have been possible for me to assume a construction mortgage if I had quit my day job and applied for the loan as a “full time General Contractor”. Indeed, I would have needed to complete a full proposal to the bank with all costs and subcontractors identified, but this is necessary anyways.

As the General Contractor I developed a build schedule and task list. Some of the top items included: Identifying subcontractors, pulling permits, and having a septic design approved.

<b>Carefully Pick your Sub-Contractors</b>

Identifying the right subcontractors is the most important task a General Contractor performs. Poor selection of subcontractors can lead to delays in schedules, cost overruns, poor workmanship and strife between the various subcontractors on the job. Prior to hiring subcontractors, it is important to visit their current jobsites. Review their work on existing jobsites and mingle with the other subs to judge the working relationship. In addition get two or three reference checks on the subcontractors. If there are poor workmanship, personality issues, or references move on. Do not settle for second rate subs, even if it means slipping your schedule or costs goals, as you will more than likely suffer even larger schedule slips or higher costs by hiring the wrong people.

<b>Pulling Permits</b>

Once you have selected and hired your excavator, chief framer, and foundation company, review with them your plans. Make sure you walk the site with them, and carefully stake out the house footprint, paying careful attention to lot setbacks, septic tanks, leach fields and well location. Once all are agreed upon with the house plans and the location of the home, contact the building inspector and review with him/her your plans. You will need to submit a very thorough package to the building inspector prior to getting approval. There are frequently town and state forms that need to be filled out regarding wetlands, and home thermal analysis. In addition, detailed engineering drawings of the proposed home may be required. In my case the Framer was able to assist in developing additional sketches of the house plan to ensure structural compliance to local, state and federal building codes. If I had used the initial home plans I had obtained, those would have been sufficient. I also could have contacted an architect with my selected plans to provide additional details, however it was not necessary in my case.

After about a week and several hundred dollars later I had the permit to build a new home.

<b>Septic Design</b>

My home required its own septic system on site. As a result, I required a septic design and an associated permit for the new home. I recommend pursuing this as early as possible in any new home project as this can take up to 2-3 months to complete as both town and state approvals are required, not to mention site and engineering work.

Without knowing exactly where the septic system and tank will reside, it may be difficult to locate the exact position of the home and in many cases the building inspector may not approve the building permit until the septic design permit has been obtained. I was fortunate in that the property already had a small septic system on the lot, so the building inspector gave me approval. I was at financial risk, however, in the event the new septic design was not approved or needed to be repositioned from the proposed location. Fortunately that was not the case and I was able to move forward on razing the cottage and beginning site work.

<b>To Be Continued ….</b>

In Part 2 of “Building Your Dream House”, I will cover razing an existing building, performing site prep work, and pouring foundation walls. Stay tuned……………

<b>For more help on building a new home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's New Home Construction Bid sheet. The New Home Construction Bid Sheet will help ensure that your new home construction project goes smoothly and is completed on time and budget.</b>

10 Things You Must Know When Building or Renovating

There are many sad cases of Home renovations not going as planned - often going way over budget or schedule, or unforseen complications popping up unexpectedly and ruining even up to years of work.

Most of these situations would never have gone so awry with some careful planning and early decision making sooner in the renovation process. Below are a few issues that it is vital to think about before you begin your home renovation.

10 Things to Think About BEFORE Beginning Work


  • Prepare a budget
  • Be aware of council regulations
  • Find a tradesperson
  • Know your start and completion dates
  • Selecting Products
  • Prepare plans
  • Purchasing products
  • What should I purchase myself?
  • What services are available to my property?
  • What sort of hot water unit do I need?

Prepare a budget

Before you start shopping for your new bathroom or kitchen you must know your spending limits. Whether you are getting a loan or paying cash, you need to work out how much your project is going to cost. Some businesses also offer finance solutions for approved customers.

Be aware of council regulations

Find out all the information you can before you arrange tradesperson. If your home is heritage listed you will need to meet strict council regulations. Many renovations must be approved by the council before work can commence. Contact your local council for more details.

Finding a tradesperson

Speak with family and friends who have done renovations or built a home. It is important to find a tradesperson that you can communicate with. Make sure you understand everything they are telling you. Book a tradesperson well ahead of time, as they can be booked for months in advance. Ensure that your tradesperson is licensed. Your product warranties are only valid if installed by a licensed tradesperson. In Australia, Trades@call provide professional, reliable tradespeople for most jobs, and all workmanship is guaranteed.

Know your start and completion dates

Communicate with your tradesperson and come to an agreement of realistic start and completion dates for your project. If you have a specific date that the job must be finished by, for example you have relatives coming to stay, let your tradesperson know. Keep in mind that unexpected problems can hold up your project, no matter how well you have planned it.

Selecting Products

It may take a few shopping trips for you to decide on the products that give you the look you desire and are also practical for your needs. Browse through a print or online catalogue. Once you have decided on a style (modern, heritage or easy living) this will narrow down your product choices. Be aware of any size restrictions of the room. Print out or write down product specifications and measure up your bathroom. You may use the online bathroom planner at the Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centre website to layout the products you have chosen.

Talk to your tradesperson about your choices. If the tradesperson tells you that a product you have chosen is unsuitable, find out why. It may just be that extra work is required that they don't want to do. Remember, it is your home and you need to be satisfied once the job is complete.

Prepare plans

It is important that you draw up plans of your bathroom or kitchen. Discuss the plans with your tradesperson. Let him know what sort of products you would like, so he will know what work needs to be done. For example if you have chosen an inwall cistern, the tradesperson will need to know so he can set up the plumbing correctly before the tiling is done. It is best to have specifications of all of the products you have chosen so the tradesperson knows exactly what work is required.

Purchasing products

When selecting products, find out how long it will take for delivery. Some goods such as tapware and toilets will be in stock, while others such as spas and vanity units are custom made and can take up to 1 month to order in. Often these custom made products are non-refundable so confirm your product choices with your tradesperson before ordering. Find out from your tradesperson which products they will required first. Generally, the first products needed are the shower base, bath or spa and mixers if they are being installed on the wall.

As an owner builder, what should I purchase myself?

If you are owner building, make sure you purchase all of the main products for your bathroom, kitchen and laundry. This will ensure that you make all of the decisions and achieve the result you want. There will be things you will not think about when placing an order, such as different handle types on a vanity unit, the pump position of your spa, that you will need to decide on. It is important to make these decisions yourself as they will affect the overall result of your project. Smaller fittings for plumbing can be purchased by your tradesperson.

What services are available to my property?

It is important to know whether you need gas or electric appliances (hot water unit, cooking appliances). If you live further out from the city, you may need LPG appliances. If you currently have electric appliances and you want to change to gas, speak with your tradesperson to determine if this is going to be cost effective and worthwhile in the long run. If you are building a new home, decide on the appliances you want before building begins, as the plumbing will need to be roughed in based on your product selection.

What sort of Hot Water Unit do I need?

There is a wide range of hot water units available and it can be quite daunting to try and choose one. If you are replacing an existing unit your choices can be limited, so speak with your tradesperson. The instantaneous hot water units are popular at the moment, but they use a larger gas line than the standard storage units. This can mean major plumbing changes which can be quite costly, though in the long run the instantaneous systems are cost efficient. See the Bourne Hot Water Selection Guide for more detail.

Many of these points seem somewhat obvious, but the problem arises when you start taking things for granted. When you don't make sure that all your bases are covered, you may find that you have invested a lot of time, effort and money in a home renovation that you may end up unhappy with.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Sliding Glass Door Repair

If the sliding glass doors in your Relocate or Renovate? are more than 10 years old, you might notice that they are becoming harder to slide open. This problem is even more common on aluminum frame dual pane doors. The reason is because the doors are heavier due to the dual pane glass, but many of the aluminum units did not use stainless steel rollers. So, in many cases, the rollers get rusty from moisture and they start to bind.

In order to replace the rollers, you have to remove the sliding panel from the opening. In most instances, the fixed panel must be removed in order for the sliding panel to come out. There is a simple way to determine whether or not your fixed panel has to come out as well. If the slider is on the inside track and the fixed panel is on the outside track, you have to remove both panels, because the slider will only come out from the outside. There is a lip on the bottom of the track inside your house. That lip keeps water from coming in. Unfortunately, that lip is also too high to lift the sliding panel up and over. So, you have to remove the fixed panel first, then lift and swing out the slider from outside. If you are one of the few people who have a slider on the outside track, then you can lift your slider out without removing the fixed panel.

But, let's assume you need to remove the fixed panel first. Here is what you do: Remove your screen door if you have one. The screen door will have two rollers on the bottom. Lift one end of the door frame with one hand while using a flat screwdriver to lift the roller off the track. Do that on both sides, then take out the screen door and set it aside. Now, look for a metal piece on the bottom track that runs from the bottom corner of the fixed panel all the way across to the bottom of the side jamb that has the door lock hardware. If your door is really old that piece might be missing. If you have one, you can pry it up from the track. It is snapped in place even though it looks like it is a part of the track. Once you have that piece removed, you want to look inside the house where the fixed panel is against the wall jam. Look for screws holding the frame to the jam. They usually have one near the top and bottom corners, and one near the center. Remove these screws and put them where you won't lose them. Now, you should be able to pull the fixed panel out of the side jam. There is a very good chance that it will be stuck. If it is, grab the center rail near the bottom and lift up as hard as you can. If you feel the panel go up, pull it back down. Do this a couple of times, then try to pull it out of the side jam again. This usually loosens it enough to pull it out. If it still won't come out, you will have to put a thin screwdriver between the fixed panel frame and the side jam and pry while a helper pulls the panel away from the jam. Once you get it free of the side jam, grab the fixed panel side rail and have a helper grab the other rail. Lift the panel up into the top track and swing the bottom out of the bottom track. Remove the panel from the top track and set it aside with the screen door.

Now, you can try lifting the slider up and out, just like you did with the fixed panel. If the slider won't clear the bottom track, you need to do a couple of things. First, look to see if it's the old rollers protruding from the bottom that is preventing the door from coming out, or if the actual bottom of the door frame is hitting the track. In almost all cases, it will be the old rollers. But, if the opening is 8' wide, sometimes the wood header that runs across the opening has sagged just enough to make it tight in the center of the opening. If it's the rollers, you need to adjust them all the way up into the door. Look for a hole on the bottom side where you can put a phillips screwdriver and find the adjustment screw. Then turn that screw counterclockwise as far as you can. Do that to both sides, then try lifting out the door. If you are still getting stuck, have your helper lift one side and pull outward while you try to pry the frame and roller over the track. If you get one side out, have your helper hold that side with his or her foot to prevent it from going back in while he or she lifts the other side for you to pry free.

Once you get the slider out, almost all rollers are held in place by the same screw that holds the frame corners together. So, you need to set the panel on one side, remove the screw in the corner, flip the panel over, remove the screw on the other bottom corner. Now, you can take a rubber mallet or the wood handle of a hammer, and tap the bottom frame off the glass. This will give you access to your rollers. Take a close look at how they are inserted into the door frame. In fact, it's a good idea to only remove one roller to bring with you to match for the new ones. Then, when you get back home, you can use the roller that is still in place as a guide to installing the new ones.

Places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware carry about 80-90% of the rollers out there. So, you should be able to find them. However, let's say this just isn't your lucky day, and you can't find your rollers anywhere. You are going to have to have them ordered. Bring the roller to your local glass shop. If you're lucky, they will have them in stock. If not, they can order the rollers, but you won't get them for about a week. Don't panic. Just go home and tap the bottom frame back on the door panel, but leave the corner screws out. You can even leave the roller out that you removed. Lift the door back in place, install the fixed panel but don't snap the bottom piece back in, and don't install the inside screws. Then, from inside the house, lift the slider and pull it closed. You don't want to drag it if you left the roller out. It will scrape the bottom track. Just lift it enough to take the pressure off, and close and lock it.

When Your new rollers come in, take everything back out and install the new rollers. Adjust the new rollers all the way up before putting the door back in. That way, the new rollers won't interfere with you lifting it back in place. Adjust the new rollers down until the door slides good and locks. You want to be sure there is an equal gap at the top and bottom when the door is about an inch from closing into the side jam. You can adjust the rollers to make this dimension even. If you can get the job done by a professional for $50 or $60 including parts, it might be worth hiring someone to do it. But, in high population areas such as Los Angeles, it's common to pay $100 in labor only. Then they mark up the cost of the rollers, and you could wind up spending $130 for a job that you can do yourself for about $20.

How To Choose Suitable Home Theater Seating

Do not be surprised when you head over to your friend's newly decked out Home Improvement theater to discover that he has literally substituted lawn chairs (yes, the squeaking fold-out aluminum kind) for those plush leather home theater loungers you had been expecting.

When it comes to setting up a home theater, last on the list of required accessories is usually the seating. Let's face it, chairs are just too passive for their own good. High definition televisions, movie screens, the hi-fi surround sound setup that has been pain-stakingly wired and tested--these are the things that will deliver that highly-prized, streamed source of entertainment. They command great attention from prospective home theater owners. Only when the proud home theater builder discovers that those rows of custom seating won't actually be delivered for a couple of months does it occur to him that something might have been overlooked in his zeal to put together the perfect movie or sports viewing room.

Do not make the same mistake. Like every other facet of home theater design, your seating requirements will need to be carefully thought out beforehand, so that you can order the right loungers or movie seats well ahead of time. Actually, it will prove well worth the effort to give this element of your home theater some serious consideration. The reason for this is that, unlike the visual and auditory aspects of movie viewing, which benefit from the sheer scale of your local movie house, your home theater seating can easily exceed the quality of movie house seating, as well as provide, though Bass Shaker technology, sensory experiences that you just cannot get otherwise. Without a doubt, making the right choice in home theater seating has the potential to improve your movie viewing experience tremendously.

So what are your choices? The least expensive option is to go with movie seats. These are like the ones found in the movie house. They bolt to the floor, and have the advantage that the seat can be folded vertically when you are no longer using them. Generally these chairs consist of solid metal frames, and have leather or microfiber upholstery. If you are planning on building a home theater with more than a dozen seats, simple economics suggests you furnish with movie seats. They also take up less space than a bulky lounger would.

For smaller home theaters, which might seat a family-sized audience of, say, 5 or 6, the home theater lounger is the preferred choice. This is where you can pull out all the stops and really create something that impresses the hell out of your friends. Loungers are built for comfort. They are big, have thickly-padded cushioning, and usually have either a manually activated footrest and reclining action, or these features come at the push of a button in the motorized models. Like the movie seats, the loungers will have cup holders in the armrests, so that you can stash popcorn or drinks close at hand. Some reclining models are known as wall huggers, meaning that they can be placed just a couple of inches in front of a wall and still allow reclining without a problem (which they manage by stretching forward rather than back). This is particularly useful if you intend to build your home theater in a room where space is limited.

One significant advantage the home theater lounger has over the movie seat is that they can easily accommodate a tactile transducer, or Bass Shaker as they are more commonly known. When a Bass Shaker is attached to a lounger, the shaker pumps vibrational energy into the chair at just those moments in the movie that significant action is taking place. This result is that you "feel" the scene much same the way the characters in the movie would. The effect can add dramatically to the viewing experience. One reviewer of the technology remarked that when the Cyberdyne headquarters was blown up in Terminator 3, he thought his couch was about to explode. Clearly this is an aspect of the viewing experience that plain old home theater surround sound cannot provide. Many lounger models offer the option of a built-in Wireless Bass Shaker, which is attached internally to the wooden backboard and driven by an RF signal from your audio amplifier. If you cannot afford Bass Shakers for all your chairs, consider getting one or two. Your family members can rotate between movies. But be warned, they will be the most fought over seats in the house!

When you go shopping for a lounger, look for quality. The high end models will be constructed of hardwood frames, such as oak, maple, or alder, that have been kiln-dried. What this means is that the wood has been heat-treated to extract excess sap and moisture. This process also keeps the wood from absorbing more moisture in the future, so as to ensure that the frame will not warp with age. Quality loungers will also be padded with high-density foam. Look for a chair description mentions cushioning featuring 2 lb foam padding and hand-tied springs. If you cannot quite determine which is the right seating choice for you, try looking for customer reviews of home theater loungers and movie seats. If you think, for instance, that you might be interested in a Rodeo home theater lounger, try typing "review of rodeo home theater lounger" into your favorite search engine (and when you have purchased chairs, consider writing a review of your selected seating for the benefit of others--you can find a place to do this below).

An important point to consider before placing any order for home theater seating is whether you can get the chairs into your home. Get out the tape measure and start measuring doorway and hallway widths. Make sure you can receive your furnishings! It would be a good idea to allow at least 6 inches clearance, and preferably more, when planning the delivery route into your home. When you order a section of seating, with 3-5 chairs, say, you will have the option of getting a straight sectional, or you can join the chairs with a slightly wedged armrest, imparting a gentle curve the sectional. If you have not designed your home theater with curved sections in mind, you may be forced to go with straight joins.

Last but not least, keep an eye out for models of seating that offer fun designs. For example, if you are building a home theater so that you can watch your favorite sporting events with friends, look for chairs that have the logo of your favorite NCAA team embroidered into the backrests. It all adds to the excitement when the time comes to switch off the light and kick back for a couple of hours of sheer home theater enjoyment.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Feng Shui: Water And The Cycle Of Life

The spiritual connection to the physical world is about harnessing the positive energy that surrounds us through the ancient Chinese art of placement, arrangement and connectivity known as Feng shui (pronounced “fung schwee”). Feng shui literally means “wind and water” in Chinese. The connective flux or the constant state of change between all five elements—fire, earth, water, wood, and metal—urges us to be in balance and in harmony with nature. There is no greater pathway of least resistance to this invisible energy that is constantly circulating, or ch’i (pronounced chee) than through flowing water. To begin by incorporating water into your environment in a harmonious way, it can bring balance into your life.

The placement of water and other elemental materials attracts ch’i. While ch’i does tend to gather in certain places, the proper circulation of ch’i may become obstructed or unbalanced in the places where we live, or the areas of a home or office. Then we may experience the adverse effects in many ways. For instance, relationships with other people may be unfulfilling, health may become impaired, or our finances may suffer. There are many different ways to improve ch’i, and one of the best and easiest ways to introduce the principles of Feng shui into your life is with the addition of water.

Generally speaking, water features are used to stimulate or create wealth or prosperity. Beyond the financial representation itself, richness in the value of life itself is also considered prosperous. Water is represented by several elements in the home such as the colors of black (in the West, black symbolizes seriousness, formality, and wisdom; is also used to increase mental activity and communication) and dark blue (reminds us of nature and conveys a sense of serenity; symbolizes seriousness and dignity). Also representative of water are glass materials, wavy and irregular shapes (symbolizes flexibility, interaction, and adaptability), as well as some household objects: sinks, tubs, toilets, faucets, aquariums, pools, glass items, and plumbing. These colors, materials, and shapes all can be linked with one element or another. It’s important to stress that one element should not dominate over the others. For example, too much fire in a room can cause tension and instability.

In order to understand how water may create prosperity, it’s important to understand the cycles of how the five elements interact to bring balance and harmony. The first cycle is the productive cycle, which is the nurturing cycle where one element produces the next one. The help of this cycle is taken to enhance the positive areas of your home. For instance, fire burns and produces ash (earth) then earth produces metal in its bowels. Metal when heated flows like water and water nourishes wood then wood is the fuel for fire. In the next cycle, the controlling cycle, one element controls the next element. For instance, fire melts metal and metal (axe) cuts wood. Wood then controls earth with its roots and earth restricts the flow of water then water extinguishes fire. Finally, in the weakening cycle, it is exactly the reverse of the productive cycle. If an element produces another element, the former gets weakened in the process. For instance, fire burns wood and wood soaks up all the water. Then water takes strength from metal and metal is extracted from the earth in which earth (ash) is produced from fire.

Since water is both the literal and symbolic source of life, it improves the ch’i more than most other elements. Slow moving water allows ch’i to accumulate, or even be formed. This is where water fountains become essential to balance life’s energies. Depending on the placement of water fountains, they can enhance different aspects of your life and improve mental health.

Water fountains bring the soothing sounds of water into your life and are a good way to bring positive energy into the home. For indoors, place a wall fountain in your office or work area. The soothing effect of running water helps reduce tension, while providing symbolic nourishment to increase your income. The stones in the fountain help stabilize your finances so you don’t spend more as you earn more. For outdoors, garden fountains can be used. Like wall fountains, garden fountains are available in materials that are also appropriate for Feng shui such as glass—(again, symbolizes water), stone, ceramic, wood, and metal. These Feng shui material elements go hand-in-hand with the balance you wish to create in your home.

Birdbaths are also a great addition to your front- or back-yard. Feng shui connects water, which nurtures all life, with money. Birds are also considered lucky, so this cure combines both symbols to increase prosperity.

Here are some additional Feng shui tips to include more water and the cycle of life into your home or office:

* Position a mirror to reflect a body of water. This cure is for people who live near a body of water—a lake, the ocean, a river, or a stream. Water, which nourishes all life, can also symbolically nourish your finances and help increase your income. Hang a mirror so that it reflects the view of water and “draws” its wealth-producing energy to you.

* Install an aquarium in your living room. Aquariums grace many Chinese restaurants and are considered good luck. Because fish are living creatures, they are apt symbols of life, health, and growth, and water nourishes all living things. An aquarium also makes a colorful, calming addition to your interior environment.

* Replace a washer in a leaky kitchen faucet. A dripping faucet in the kitchen, where wealth is generated, can cause money to slowly leak away.

* Close toilet lids. Ch’i flows away from your home via drains, especially the toilet. Closing the toilet lid keeps money from “going down the drain.”

* Close the bathroom door and the shower curtain. By keeping these closed, you prevent ch’i—and prosperity–from slipping away down the drain.

* Hang a glass wind chime in the window of your office or work space. Glass facilitates mental activity and communication, so this is good for people who work in communication fields, computers, or sales.

Feng shui reminds us that we’re living with rather than against nature and it benefits both human beings and our environment. Our lives are affected by our physical and emotional environments. Instead of surrounding ourselves with destruction and obstruction, we surround ourselves with openness, cleanliness, and the understanding of life’s essential elements; we are harmonizing ourselves and balancing our lives.

Plumbing Basics – Installing a Bathtub

Installing a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, but it does require solid plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move speedily; if you have to open a wall to remove the old tub and position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the project is within a home handyman's skills, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.

This article will help you install a new bathtub in your bathroom if you have already bought a new tub and don’t need to change the arrangement of your previous water supply pipes.


Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:


New Bathtub
Hammer
Pipe Wrenches
Prybar
Safety Glasses
Level
Pliers
Adjustable Wrench
Putty Knife
Screwdriver
Cold Chisel
Tape Measure
Pipe Caps

Preparing for the Installation


Firstly, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 
Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.

 
Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts and olives (sometimes supplied with the tub).

 
Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.


Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.

 
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.


The bath should now be ready to be fitted in its final position.


Removing Old Taps
If you need to replace old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.

Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.

Before moving on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.

Installing the Bathtub

Using the two wooden boards under its feet, place the bathtub in the required position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four small points.


The next goal is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.


To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the appropriate supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.


Switch on the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks and tighten them if necessary. Fill the bathtub and also check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.


Finally, fix the bath paneling as described in the manufacturer’s instruction manual.


Tiling and sealing around the bathtub should wait until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will settle it into its final position.

Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic connector to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existent supply pipes.

If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require reducing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.

Next, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink. Secure the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the tap is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The former type should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.

Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below.


You can choose from a variety of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of sealing gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, you can fill it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to always fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the tub is in use. The sealant can crack fairly early if you do not take into account this movement before sealing.


Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are also easily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the tiles using water-resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout.

Learn How To Plan Your Meals To Free Up Your Time

Meal planning and bulk cooking are both wonderful techniques you can utilize and modify to fit your families needs. The idea behind this is simple. The principle is that you cook and or prepare your meals ahead of time and then preserve them by either freezing or fridgerating them. Also, meal planning you can cook one large meal and get 2-3 other meals out of it! The key here is to make every meal you cook count!

When you are going to prepare a family favorite, double, triple, even quadruple the recipe if it will keep in the freezer. Sound wonderful doesn’t it? Why not give yourself a much-needed break -- cook ahead today so you can relax tomorrow!
 

The first step in meal planning is always the most challenging. To make it less challenging I suggest that you grab the following supplies: Pen, paper, your personal recipe collection or your favorite cookbook and a comfortable chair.

Start by writing down a list of your favorite meals and plan on preparing a grocery list that will coincide with your list. Now, since we are talking bulk cooking here – if you normally would serve up one pot of spaghetti – plan to serve 2 (that would mean that you will have to double the recipe – so be sure to alter your shopping list accordingly) – It will take the same amount of time to cook – just a little extra planning is needed.
Next you can use a blank calendar and simply write the meals down on the day you will serve them. I personally post my meal plan up on my refrigerator for the entire house to see. This also helps to prompt me for the next day of meals that will be served.

The most important tool in meal planning and bulk cooking is your freezer. If you have a small freezer, don’t fret; you can fit many meals in that small freezer space – it will just call for a little more creativity on your part. With the use of freezer bags, that you can stack flat and the use of some freezer proof containers you will be surprised at how many meals your freezer can hold.

Here are a few essential and widely used meal planning techniques and tips:

Multi-recipes ~ Using this strategy requires you to cook many main course meals in one day. For instance, on a Sunday morning you could prepare a roast in your Crock pot, some spaghetti on top of the stove, a baked Chicken in the oven and perhaps a nice salad. You also could quarter and boil some potatoes, cook some rice and some veggies (either fresh or canned). What you now have is 5 different meals that you can use throughout the entire week. You can eat one of the meals that very evening and you could Freeze or refrigerate the rest. This technique works very well for some people and it provides a wide variety of dishes that you can use. I personally use this technique from time to time. I usually do my multi-recipe cooking on a Sunday and it can take up to 5 hrs to complete but what you are left with is 2 weeks worth of food that you can enjoy. And notice that the meals that I use in my Multi-recipe list are easy to prepare.

One Cook Wonder ~ With this strategy you would cook one main course recipe that can be used for different meals. For Instance, let’s say you just baked a large turkey. You could slice some of the turkey off and serve the breast with gravy, dice some of the turkey and prepare a turkey gumbo and use the rest for either a soup or turkey salad. Mind you, you do not have to prepare all of those meals on one day. After the Turkey has been cooked and cooled, you can freeze and refrigerate the turkey that you cut off the carcass and prepare your other Turkey related meals at a different time.

Quick and Easy meals ~  Be sure to incorporate those quick and easy meals into your planning process. If your family loves Sloppy Joes – cook up the sloppy joe meat in bulk and freeze it – then all you need to do is defrost the meat, grab some buns and viola.

What about Hamburger Helper? Why not cook 2-3 boxes of it, separate it into 3 separate large containers and freeze them. That idea alone allows you to prepare 3 meals in just 30-minutes.

Designate a meal for a particular night ~  Every Friday night in my house is either Pizza or burger night. The idea here is to choose any night of the week and just designate a meal to go with that night. I always make sure that I have plenty of Frozen Pizza’s with a variety of toppings on hand in my freezer. The same goes for those Turkey burger patties (my family doesn’t eat much ground beef). The idea behind this process is that you now have one night’s meal already planned. You can also stock up on that meal when the products are on sale. If you see Frozen pizza’s being sold in bulk, grab them up!

Love your leftovers ~  This is one of my favorite parts of meal planning as it allows you to use your imagination. At least every other week or so be sure to go through your refrigerator and take inventory of what you have in there. When you combine 2-3 leftovers, you may find that you have a meal right there. You can use left over pasta from spaghetti to prepare a pasta salad, leftover spaghetti sauce and just a few pieces of chicken can be a wonderful dish to top with cheese and place in the oven. Again, with a little imagination – you can make your leftovers work for you!

Use the sales paper ~ everyone loves a good sale and I use the sales paper to help me in my meal planning. When I see our Family favorites on sale – instead of buying one, I will purchase 3-4 of the same items and simply come home and prepare the meals or freeze the food that I purchased. My family and I love Chicken. When I spot whole chickens on sale I’ve been known to purchase up to 5-6 at a time. Keep in mind that I have a family of 6 and in my family of six; there are 3 teenagers (and you know how much they can consume). By shopping like this, I actually save hundreds and hundreds of dollars a year in food alone!

Helpful supplies

Labels/freezer bags/Freezer-proof containers: Be sure that you have all of your freezing and refrigerating needs on hand. When storing food in freezer safe containers be sure to place a label on the container with the name of the meal and the date the meal was prepared.

Crockpot: This handy appliance is my best friend in the kitchen. When using a crockpot you literally prepare the meal, place it in the crockpot, Set it & Forget it. It is a hands free cooking experience. I cook whole chickens in my crock pot and then slice the chicken up to freeze and use for sandwiches, enchilada’s, chicken salads, chicken soup, chicken stew.. as you can see – the possibilities are endless.

As you can see, meal planning is a money, sanity and time saver - what else could a busy mom ask for?

Now, let’s get Cookin’!

Monday, December 26, 2011

3-Tab Roofing Shingles

A shingle that shows 3 tabs, or measures 3 feet, is fittingly known as 3-tab roofing shingles. They are normally guaranteed for 20 years and help the roof to have a smooth, defined look. Depending on the manufacturer, 3-tab shingles are often available in 20, 25 or even 30 year limited warranties. They are generally available in a variety of colors and it’s also important to note that 3-tab roofing shingles are some of the most cost efficient shingles to use on your home.

Are 3-Tab Roofing Shingles For You?

Before deciding on 3-tab roofing shingles for your home, check with your local homeowner’s association. In addition to certain restrictions that each association may have, some do not allow the use of 3-tab shingles. This may be true in areas that are prone to high wind or other inclement weather, but check with your local building requirements to be sure.

Replacing 3-Tab Roofing Shingles

If you need to replace 3-tab roofing shingles, you can either do the job yourself or hire a professional roofing contractor, such as Roofer911.com. If you decide to take the job on yourself, choose a warm, dry day. Do not work on the roof if it is wet or slippery. Once you’re on the roof, carefully pry the tabs of the shingles upward, which overlap the damaged one. Loosen the tabs and the adhesive on the back of the shingle. Work carefully to avoid damage to the neighboring shingles. If you lift too many tabs on good shingles, they may crack. For the shingle that you are removing, look for the nails holding it into place and remove them as well. Once the shingle is out, remove any debris from that area before placing the new shingle. With your new shingle in hand, search for the adhesive strips near the bottom of each of the 3 tabs. Slide the new shingle into place and secure it with nails. You may use roofing cement to secure the overlaying tabs.

Contacting A Professional

If you are uncomfortable working on your roof, call a professional roofing contractor. Roofer911.com has years of experience in helping homeowners with all of their roofing needs. We can help you, too. Give us a call or fill in the form for a fast quote on your project. We are here to answer all of your questions and to provide you with quality work, so please do not hesitate to contact Roofer911.com for repair or replacement of your roof.

Sunday, December 25, 2011

3 Memory Foam Mattress Topper

3 memory foam mattress topper are actually 3 inch memory foam mattress topper. But for sometimes they are referred to as 3 memory foam mattress topper. When looking for this mattress product, it is important to know that there are many good selections out there, so there is no need to settle for any lesser quality products.

Currently, a very popular and new 3 memory foam mattress topper which just hit the market is the Advanced Concept 3 inch 4 lb Visco Elastic Memory Foam Mattress Topper Overlay Pad. This is a special product that is made using urethane foam. Urethane foam is the material that is used in the padding and cushioning in all kinds of products from football helmets to furniture. Viscoelastic refers to a property of the foam. Viscoelastic has appreciable and conjoint viscous and elastic properties that flows just like honey or syrup. This is how the product came about getting its name.

Another very similar product is the Comfort Clinic 3-Inch VE Memory Foam Mattress Topper. This product comes in Queen Size. This brand has an extra softness to your mattress with 3-inch topper made from memory foam which is originally created by NASA. The foam of this 3 memory foam mattress topper slowly conforms to every curve and shape of your body and also adjusts to your body weight and temperature. This is especially good for adapting to various climatic conditions. A very fitful product made for Queen beds.

Essentially, 3 memory foam mattress topper has three additional inches of Memory Foam to the bottom of the topper and finish the construction with a Hanes Grip-Tite Floor to keep the topper from sliding once it is placed on top of any mattress. By having a 3 memory foam mattress topper, you will get added softness to your mattress or even an extra layer of comfort.

3 Great Reasons To Buy A Portable Air Conditioner

1. Oprah said so.

2. It looks like the robot from “Lost In Space”.

3. Brad and Angelina are adopting one.

For those of you who make your decisions based on real information, here are some cool portable air conditioner facts.

A goldmine of enlightening information can be uncovered by visiting forums. For instance, when I wanted to tap into the experiences of actual portable air conditioner owners, all I had to do was Google “portable air conditioner forums” and Voila!, I had instant access to pages of relevant information from 3 different forums.

I encourage you to try this technique. Just substitute any generic product or service description for “portable air conditioners” plus the word “forums”.

What I uncovered was concerns over energy consumption, how energy consumption impacts circuit load, noise level, venting, the disposal of water from the dehumidifying process, and of course, price.

Portable Air Conditioner Energy Consumption
In the United States, the average air conditioner runs 750 hours each year. Since air conditioners use a lot of electricity, their efficiency has become a public issue. The EER, or Energy Efficiency Rating, is the ratio of the Btu's per hour to the number of watts the unit draws.

EER ratings of 7 or 8 are at the low end of energy efficiency. Many units have ratings around 12 which are good. The highest rated portable air conditioner I could find was the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=alternatiheat-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPortable-Air-Conditioner%2Fdp%2FB000A8D7X4%2Fsr%3D8-1%2Fqid%3D1153668635%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fie%3DUTF8">Amcor AL10000E</a> . It has an awesome EER of 16.6.

Portable Air Conditioner Circuit Load
Before you start your search for a portable air conditioner, check your breaker box for the number of amps available to the room you want cooled. If you buy a unit that draws 14.5 amps on a 15 amp circuit, you’ll have the additional but unintended cooling effect of sitting in the dark while enjoying your new portable air conditioner.

How Noisy Is A Portable Air Conditioner?
Most portable air conditioners that deliver 14,000 Btu’s or less have a noise level around 50 decibels. This is comparable to the loudness of most refrigerators. At 60 decibels, a 16,000 Btu unit is slightly noisier. Think of what it’s like to watch TV in the kitchen while the fridge is running.

Portable Air Conditioner Venting
There is some controversy as to whether a dual hose unit is superior to the single hose configuration. On one hand, a single hose unit will exhaust from the room some portion of the cool air it just produced.

On the other hand, a dual hose unit eliminates this problem, but the warmer unconditioned air used to cool their compressors results in slightly less efficiency. They also use two internal fans which result in slightly higher energy usage.

Another hot topic at the forums that people are venting about is having to wrap insulation around the hose of their single hose unit. This is done to prevent the hot exhaust hose from adding heat back into the room. Personally, I can’t think of anything better than duct tape wrapped around insulation to brighten up a room.

Water Water Everywhere
Portable air conditioners offer three methods for disposing of the water extracted by the dehumidifier component.

The most convenient is auto evaporation which eliminates the need for drains or reservoirs. The reliability of this method varies from unit to unit.

The second method is direct drain using a hose attached to the unit. This can be problematic unless the unit is located near a floor drain. Not much chance of that, so you’ll have to use a bucket.

And finally, you get to empty the pan yourself. Just make sure the pan is large enough so the air conditioner doesn’t shut off in the middle of the night when the pan fills up.

Price
I think price is a secondary consideration to efficiency. As usual, a higher priced unit that operates more efficiently will always end up costing less in the long run than a cheaper, less efficient model.

Portable air conditioners are much less efficient than comparable window units and cost roughly twice as much. What you're paying for is the flexibility to roll it from one room to another or into a closet for easy storage.

Another Option to Consider
For the price of a portable air conditioner you might be able to buy a window air conditioner AND a new window to put it in.

3 futon seater swing - where east meets west

Sometimes, it's the simple pleasures in life that makes us happy, like swinging happily in a hammock at a beach. Why not innovate a little by creating the 3 futon seater swing? A 3 futon seater swing is a futon converted into a swing with the capacity of a 3 seater fit. Currently, if you are looking for one, then perhaps you need to make one yourself. But don't fret just yet. It's not as tough to make one as you think!

First you need to get yourself a 3 seater swing. The 3 seater swing you buy must have a 3 Seater Cast Aluminum. This swing frame you purchase must be a true heavy duty garden swing with heavy duty powder coat finish. Make sure that it also has a tilting sunshade and heavy duty sling set and sunshade so it will not fade in the most harsh outdoor climate. This is the your first step and skeleton of your 3 futon seater swing.

Now that you have your 3 seater swing frame. It still isn't the most comfortable thing in the world. Good can be better. So we look at combining another luxury into our set. The hard part is to find a futon that you can use for cushioning in your brand new 3 seater swing frame. Now don't be discouraged. After all, it's just a futon you are looking for to fit the puzzle right? Wrong. There is no place on earth you can find a futon which can fit the size of a 3 seater swing. It just isn't available.

However, there is alternative. You can find a cushion made with the texture and quality of a futon mattress and then use it as your cushioning for your 3 futon seater swing. Now just head down to a futon store and look for a baby futon. You need to tell the sales person your intention so he or she can have an idea of your 3 futon seater swing project and estimate the best cushion made of futon specifications for your 3 futon seater swing. Ask to see the choices of baby futons. Futons made for babies are of same texture and are not softer or harder than ordinary futons. So all you need is six of them and then you will have your complete fusion of traditional Japanese bedding and 3 seater outdoor garden swing. Your new 3 futon seater swing will be the envy of your neighbors for a very long time!

Friday, December 23, 2011

3 4 bed mattress

I was quite confused the other day when a young teenage customer stepped into my mattress store and asked for a 3 4 bed mattress. Upon more discussion, I discovered that he was shopping based on the shopping list his mother had written for him. Apparently, what he was referring to was a 3/4 bed mattress.

3 4 bed mattress is the mattress meant for Single Bed with the Size 3&340 X 6&346. This form of bed uses a mattress size 3"0 X 6"6with the Height: 3'4'' and the Width: 7'2'' plus Depth: 3'6". 3 4 bed mattress are meant for beds designed to accommodate active kids and limited room space. A sturdy steel tube profile ensures years of use. There are many different sizes that have been made throughout the years. A very common bed was referred to as the "3/4 bed". Many customers believe that their "3/4 bed" is a standard size. 3/4 bed is 48 inches wide by 75 inches in length. However, less then 20% sold in the market these days are actually 3/4 size mattresses.

From what I noticed, this young customer is buying the bed for his younger sibling. so I casually enquired to see if the purchase was for his younger sibling. He was surprised but was glad that I understood his needs. After assuring him that I will do my best to recommend him a good 3 4 bed mattress, he finally felt comfortable and confident to discuss with me.
So I took him around the store to help him check through the selections of 3 4 bed mattress which we have. I believed it was important for a customer to know the choices he has and how they cater to his needs before making a purchase. Thus we went through many choices.

As he was also looking for a bed alongside with the purchase, I showed him the sturdy yet elegant Carved Oak Single Bed Mattress. This Size 3&340 X 6&346 Carved oak single bed is equipped with carved lozenges, turned balusters and square peg joined legs and bun. These are vital features to look for when looking for a stable and long lasting bed. Carved Oak Single Bed uses a mattress size 3"0 X 6"6.

To be exact, the Mattress Size 3"0 X 6"6 must be installed on the bed with the Height: 3'4'', the Width: 7'2'' and the Depth: 3'6 to fit properly in the bed. This is not a problem at all as this is a very popular specification in the mattress productline. I slowly explained everything I could to him because I know this is the perfect bed for his active young sibling.

I know his mom sent him here as a form of learning experience, so I did my best to help him learn when he shops. I gave him a catalogue of the product discussed and suggested that he explained it to his mom or to bring her for the next visit to my store. I bid him farewell and I'm sure he will be back again with his mum to browse for more items such as Area Rugs, Bed Frame or even Bean Bag Chairs. Helping that young customer learn about 3 4 bed mattress was certainly a fun and happy experience.

1 foam mattress memory1 foam mattress memory

Many households are looking for that 1 foam mattress memory brand that can really make a difference in their quality of sleep. Well, it's true. All you ever need is just 1 foam mattress memory type to give you excellent sleep at night. So where do we begin to look for that 1 foam mattress memory? I'd suggest that you do some research online before heading down to your nearest mattress store. This way, it saves you time when you arrive as you are packed with knowledge and an understanding of they 1 foam mattress memory you wish to buy.

First go to SHOP.COM. This is one sweet place where you can buy memory foam 1.5 -inch mattress, topper-king and other home furnishings products. You can also find that they sell the-art Memory Foam Mattress Pad which is padding required to protect your foam memory mattress. The Memory Foam mattress pad sold in this retailer is made of NASA developed foam. Therefore, it molds to your body shape and provides you with the comfort that your body dictates.

Next stop, let's log into NexTag.com. Now, here we can find a good list of Memory Foam Mattress 1 Prices & Reviews. Before making any 1 foam mattress memory purchase, try to compare cheap prices for Memory Foam Mattress at NexTag.com. Wise shoppers know how to shop for bargain appliances, furnishings, and more for their kitchens, bedrooms, bathrooms, and backyards in NexTag because they simply are the people with the better price.

Finally, go to Alibaba.com which is China's online retailer that also sells Memory Foam Mattress Products, featuring Catalogs and Samples for your research. Just search for Memory Foam Mattress products from their database and you will see that a comprehensive list of Memory Foam Mattress Supplier, Company, Manufacturer, Factory, Exporter, Importer and so forth are listed. This will give you an idea of the variety you can deal with plus the leading brands that you should be aware of.

Now these references not just provide you with the necessary understanding of foam mattress memory but also gives you the latest scoop on the offers and good deals available. By being a smart shopper, there are criteria you should be aware of before making your purchase. Your 1 foam mattress memory has to have the following attributes:

i) It is developed for NASA to relieve extreme G-force pressures. This is because NASA is the first to utilize this technology for their astronauts.

ii) Your foam memory mattress must possess the revolutionary heat-sensitive, visco-elastic material which molds itself to every angle and curve of your body.

iii) When you sleep on it, it gives your neck, back, shoulders and feet proper support. This is vital as your entire musculoskeletal architecture is supported in the correct anatomical position. You will definitely feel the effect when you test it.

iv) when you sleep on the memory foam mattress, notice to see if the pressure is evenly distributed across the entire contact area between your body and the mattress. This distribution of pressure reduces pressure points and practically eliminates the need to toss and turn. Only this feature alone can allowi your body to sleep better and rest more soundly.

In a nutshell, the pressure-relieving properties of that 1 foam mattress memory you buy must allow you to feel comfort and support you have never before experienced. After all, you are investing hard earned money on it and that 1 foam mattress memory should never let you down especially when the sun goes down everyday.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

1 800 mattress

If you're looking for 1 800 mattress, then you know that 1 800 mattress is a leading national bedding tele-retailer. 1 800 mattress is also the first in the industry to launch a Spanish-language call center and website, 1-800-Su-Colchon and http://www.1800sucolchon.com/, to assist its customers better understand their bedding purchases in their native tongue.

1 800 Mattress offers the best selection of the most popular brands in North America like Simmons, Sealy, Serta, King Koil and more. They have the largest selection of the number one brand in the United States, Sealy Posturepedic, and their house special, the 1-800-Mattress Collection, a hand-picked line designed by the owner to provide you with the best buy.
Currently, 1 800 Mattress is expanding into Southern California with a franchise agreement with Mattress Gallery, a 57-store retailer based here. A little history lesson tells us that  1 800 Mattress is based in Long Island City, N.Y and 1 800 Mattress has served Southern California since 1999 via telephone. 1 800 Mattress practices a Next Day Nationwide Delivery Policy and customers can order online or even call 1-800 824 7777 to speak with a specialist.

For those who have done business with the national retailer of mattress, they will know that 1 800 Mattress is super efficient and very polite on the phone. Their specialists will offer callers a wide range of prices $200 and onwards plus choices such as Tempur-Pedic, Serta, Simmons, Hypnos, King Coil and Nation's Pride. They also will allow customers to test the mattress when it arrived and to return it if it does not meet expectations or fit the specifications.

A company experienced in mattress retailing such as 1 800 Mattress should not be ignored when you are sourcing for mattresses or other bedding products. It will save you a lot of trouble by buying from them as they are both winner in variety and pricing!

Monday, December 19, 2011

Relocate or Renovate?

Should I stay or should I go? Inevitably, most homeowners are forced to ask this question at some point in time. The decision to sell their house and move away or to stay in their home and remodel can be very tough indeed. Many factors certainly influence whether you decide to move or whether you stay and remodel your home.

MOVE OR REMODEL?

Location, location, location. It's usually the mantra of real estate agents, but it applies here as well. Where your home is located is usually the most important factor because a home improvement project will never change the location of your house. You may be forced to undertake a move because of external forces you cannot change, such as:

*    You may not like the quality of your local school system.

*    You may not have many local options for shopping or lifestyle choices.

*    The size of your current lot or piece of land may not handle an increase in size or expansion.

*    A neighborhood association may prevent additions or expansions because it changes the look of the area or subdivision.

*    Legal or zoning restrictions in your city might prevent any changes.

*    Your subdivision may only have identical housing plans ("cookie-cutter houses") and adding a second story or home addition could make it less valuable than the others in the neighborhood.

*    It may cost too much to renovate.

Because you cannot change these factors, you and your family may find that a move to a new location is absolutely necessary. Take a look at your home location and decide if it meets your needs, if it can be improved, whether or not it is too old, and whether or not you can deal with the stress of a remodeling project.

TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING?

Another factor in your "relocate or renovate" decision could be that your house is already the nicest in the area. An extensive renovation or improvement of the best house in the neighborhood might be fine if you're planning on living there for an extremely long period of time. However, if you have plans of selling in the future, such a renovation might prevent you from getting a decent return on your investment. If your house is already the nicest, spending more on it won't make the value go up even higher.

TAKING THE PLUNGE?

If you've decided to stay put, you may have made the best choice. If you ask people to list the costs involved with moving, most will only talk about the price for a moving company to come pick up their furniture. It can actually cost more to move than to take on certain remodeling work. There are costs associated with selling your house, buying a new house (realtor fees, closing costs), cleaning services, transporting your family (hotels, meals, gas), repairs and renovations needed to sell the old house, and many, many more.

If you're going to renovate, keep these tips in mind to make sure your home improvement projects will go a lot smoother:

o    Decide whether you're improving your home for you or for a future sale - If you want to remodel your bathroom or paint your interior walls, the choices you make can affect the value of your home. You might love the color red or a modern sink design in your master bath. However, home buyers are not always fond of exotic designs and it may do more harm than good when you're ready to sell your home.

o    Decide whether you'll move out during construction - You and your family may not be able to deal with the noise, debris, dust, and extra workers in your home. You might need to temporarily relocate to a hotel, apartment, or house. However, it might be a good idea to stay. Some like to be close to the action and be able to oversee the work being done. It's also important for someone to be there to receive deliveries. If you stay, it's important to make sure you ask workers clean up at the end of each and every day. Make arrangements to replace the room being worked on (for example, set up your kitchen appliances in a spare bedroom during a kitchen remodel.)

o    Arrange for sufficient financing to be able to cope during any project - There could be many hidden costs in a home improvement project, so it's good to budget for surprises. Plan for problems that a contractor might discover during the renovation. Plan for extra time (which increases your budget), beyond your projected completion date. Plan for changes you might decide on, too - it might look good on paper, but you could change your mind during the remodeling job and those changes cost extra. Think about adding at least 15% to 25% to your expected budget... for emergencies. Consider the little things, as well - other hidden costs could include: ordering more takeout food during a kitchen remodel, paying for coin laundry services when your water is shut off for extended periods, or even hotel stays during heavy construction.

o    Plan to do it all-at-once or project-by-project - Many homeowners decide to remodel a kitchen and, while that job is underway, will then decide to add on a bathroom renovation. This can cause delays and extra expense. While it's true that there are already construction workers on the job site, it takes careful planning to arrange for permits, materials, designs, and the subcontractors' schedules to complete a project on time and on budget. It's best to plan for your kitchen remodel, bathroom remodel, and new patio installation to happen all at once or you should plan for them to take place individually, over a period of time. It will cut down on cost overruns, delays, and headaches.

MAKE IT HAPPEN

As the real estate market continues to slow down, and in some areas drop dramatically, it is an important time to consider staying put and remodeling your home. Housing prices may continue to level out so one sure way to improve property value is a proper renovation. Consult a designer or architect in your area to determine which changes will be best for your home in your neighborhood.

If you're planning to stay in your current house for a long period of time, make sure that any renovations you do are truly for you. It's your home and you've got to live in it and be comfortable. Whether you convert your basement into a recreation room or you want a spa tub installed in your master bathroom, go with the products and designs that work with your lifestyle. If your tastes are more exotic, you can always remodel or renovate again when you're ready to sell.

If you plan and finance your renovation appropriately, you should be able to "make over" your home to suit your needs with little or no problems. To find a reliable contractor you can use a referral service, like ConstructionDeal.com, because they can be a great resource for finding a local pre-screened expert to help make your renovation dreams a reality.

Installing a New Shower Unit

A successful shower installation requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you must decide on the type of shower that you wish to install. It is important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is also important to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature.

Bath/Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very cheap option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also require additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the different mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method
Depending on the type of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.


Use the instruction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

 
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

 
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

 
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
 

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
 

If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
 
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it - possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.


Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.



Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Using pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.

# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.

How To Find Quality Log Furniture And A Trustworthy Retailer

The great thing about looking for a retailer or manufacturer of rustic log furniture is there are plenty of sellers out there these days, especially with the age of the world wide web.  Since the birth of the internet everyone and there brother seem to have tried to start making and selling all types of rustic furniture online, but what I am sure that they found out is that making log furniture the right way is a hard task to achieve. Now don’t take me the wrong way there are some great builders of this style of furniture and you will notice they are the craftsmen that have been around for a while. So knowing this let me tell you how to make the right decision on choosing your rustic furniture.

    One of the first things you need to decide is the species of wood you would like to go with, there are dozens of them out there, but only a couple of good species that will stand up to the elements outside. There is hickory, cypress , pine(not recommended), aromatic cedar, eastern white cedar, Northern white cedar etc. As for the species I mentioned I can tell a little about each, hickory is a nice species but I noticed the furniture I see made is that the diameter of the wood is always small and I get a little suspicious of the strength of it. Cypress, has hardly no grain that I see compared to the rest. Pine is absolutely not for me, it is sappy and soft and it is not very durable. Aromatic cedar is a beautiful wood but when it weathers if turns dark in the elements untreated. Eastern white cedar people will say it is the same as Northern white cedar, but let me tell you its not, I know from working with it. The wood is really knotty and hairy compared to Northern white cedar. The looks are similar in color and the aging process is the same. As for Northern white cedar it weathers to a beautiful silvery gray if untreated and exposed to the elements. Northern white cedar can with stand the elements for years, some say that it will last for 50 years outside untreated, but I can tell you by experience that it really only last for 20 years. White cedar is not sappy at all, making it easier to stain or varnish unlike other species, like pine that will actually have the sap come out years later, right through the paint or varnish that was on there.

    Once you decided the species the next thing to do is find the retailer out there selling the log furniture with that wood. When you locate this seller, keep in mind that if that seller is just a middleman, you will not get the service you will get from the actual manufacturer. More than likely, if that person is not the manufacturer and is just a website owner or guru, it is probably just a drop ship situation and they will surely tell you they can get you the furniture right away, when they have no idea of the inventory or how busy the manufacturer really is (don’t be fooled with factory direct, sales pitches). Second, just how much can that person really know about rustic log furniture if they are just an order taker. Dealing with the person who is actually handcrafting your furniture and can tell you exactly when it will be done, is by far a more reliable way to purchase your furniture. Trust me, there are more websites out there selling log furniture then there are manufacturers of it.


    Now we can get to the construction of the log furniture. Some log furniture is sanded smooth, some are skipped peeled, some have the bark on and some are completely peeled.  As for which one is better, I can only tell you what I think. The sanded log furniture definitely takes away from the rustic feel, skipped peel is a nice look, but I wonder about the smoothness of the wood with just a peel on parts of the log. The furniture with the bark left on definitely has to have some sort of finish on it to keep the bark on, and sometimes I have seen where the bark will peel off over time.  Completely peeled log furniture is smooth with out splinters and can easily be treated and has the true rustic look and feel. Getting past that you should then take note of how the log furniture is actually connected together. Some furniture is just butted up together and is nailed, I do not recommend that style of construction. Most have a mortise and tenon connection, which is extremely durable. Things to watch out for with this is the size of the dowels, some out there will go with a smaller diameter dowel meaning their logs are usually smaller too. I recommend asking the diameter and make sure it is at least 1.25”, since that is the weakest point of the furniture. The diameter of the logs should be no less than 3” as far as I am concerned. Most of the rustic log furniture I see on the internet does not meet that size on a good percentage of there lines of furniture, even though it looks large in the pictures I would definitely ask the sizes of the logs to get a good comparison from one builder to the next. The hardware that is used on the log furniture is a big factor also, because if you are going to have your furniture exposed to the rain and snow or what ever you don’t want the hardware starting to bleed or rust, all the hardware should be zinc coated on all parts of the furniture. This is one of the many ways that some of the manufacturers and garage builders cheapen the quality of the furniture. Another thing to look for in the hardware part of it is whether they nail or screw the furniture together, screws are the better way to go than nails, but nails that are hot dipped in glue are just as good as screws. The nails without the glue coating will actually start to back out over time due to the fibers of the wood pushing on them. If you take a closer look at the pictures and ask some of these questions you will get two things out of it, 1. You will find the better quality log furniture and 2. You will find out if that person who is selling you the furniture really truly knows anything about rustic furniture.
  
   Other than construction or species the only thing I can tell you about looking for a quality piece of rustic furniture is that you should take a closer look at the company you are dealing with. Building rustic furniture is not like building a square table that can be pre cut to length and then put together on an assembly line. Rustic furniture needs plenty of design work, custom fitting, lots of judgmental decisions being made do to the differences of the sizes of stock, and craftsmanship that you do not get from the builders that have 75 employees, there is now way that all the employees have these kind of skills or patience or pride, they are on an assembly line slapping the pieces together and getting the furniture out the door to you, plus they have the big money to market the product and get the exposure to be seen by the public.  Notice while your looking on the Internet or anywhere else that there are plenty of sites or stores with the same manufacturers, these are the big companies. Getting your rustic furniture from a small company that has been in business for at least 10 years and takes pride in every hand fitted piece, will give you all the things you need to get a quality piece of rustic furniture that will last for a long time to come.